Not a Perfume is a minimalist and avant-garde scent containing only a single ingredient.

Juliette Has a Gun’s Not a Perfume is a fragrance that subverts expectations and challenges conventional notions of what a perfume “should” be. Perfumer Romano Ricci crafted Not a Perfume in 2010, a fragrance designed to be minimalist and avant-garde. This was in stark contrast to the elaborate and layered compositions that dominated the fragrance world at the time. Ricci wanted to create a scent that adapted to the wearer’s skin chemistry, a scent that felt more like a “second skin” rather than traditional perfume. These perfumes are called “skin scent perfumes“. This resulted in a highly personalized scent as it produces unique results for everyone.

Not a Perfume aims to be a subtle yet present fragrance that enhances the natural body odor rather than masking it. A fragrance that can be worn by anyone without overwhelming the sense.

Scent Description – Not a Perfume

Not a Perfume is a clean, musky and slightly woody scent. It’s generally categorized as a Woody Musk fragrance. People often describe the scent as “transparent”, “sheer” and almost imperceptible at first, but it gradually warms up on the skin, revealing a subtle and sensual aroma.
However, there is a particularity: the perfume in made up of a single ingredient—Cetalox.

At the heart of Not a Perfume is a singular, synthetic note called Cetalox, a molecule known for its woody, musky, and slightly sweet scent. This synthetic molecule mimics the scent of ambergris, a rare an expensive natural ingredient derived from the sperm of whales.
Cetalox is commonly used as a base in perfumery to add depth and longevity, but here, it’s allowed to shine in its purest form. The result: a fragrance that feels almost “naked,” with no overt florals, spices, or fruits to distract from its raw, minimalist beauty. The scent has an ethereal quality, like freshly washed skin or the warmth of skin itself. It’s not loud or attention-grabbing, but it leaves an intriguing impression that lingers close to the body.

Notes

Top notes: None
Middle notes: Cetalox
Base notes: Cetalox, providing a soft, woody, musky, and slightly animalic scent.

What Does Not a Perfume Smell Like?

If you’ve ever walked past someone who has just stepped out of a shower and you catch the subtle scent of their clean skin—soft, warm, and comforting—that’s the kind of vibe Not a Perfume evokes. It’s a fresh, “skin-like” fragrance that is subtly musky, like a natural, almost imperceptible warmth that emanates from your own body. There’s a faint, almost powdery undertone, but it never turns into something overtly floral or sweet. It’s minimalistic and pure, like a blank canvas of scent.

The fragrance is often described as having a slight cedar-like or even paper-like scent upon initial application due to the nature of Cetalox. As it dries down on the skin, it develops into a clean, musky scent with a subtle woody undertone. Some people perceive it as slightly sweet or powdery. Overall, this scent is very subtle and personal. It’s not a loud or projecting fragrance. It’s more of a “skin scent” that creates an aura of clean, understated elegance.

Because it uses only Cetalox, Not a Perfume has a distinctly personal vibe. It’s less about a list of top, heart, and base notes, and more about how your body chemistry interprets its single, synthetic note.

Sillage and Longevity

With a subtle projection, Not a Perfume stays close to the wearer. It’s not likely to fill a room and not overpowering, but people close to you will be able to smell it. This makes ideal for those who prefer an intimate, non-intrusive scent.
Longevity varies depends on skin chemistry. However, you can generally expect a moderate wear of around 4-6 hours.

Who Is Not a Perfume For?

If you love clean, minimalist fragrances without the complexity (or potential allergens) of traditional perfumes, Not a Perfume is worth exploring. Its subtle nature makes it suitable for work environments, casual day-to-day wear, or whenever you crave a hint of something pleasant without a loud announcement. Fans of the “your skin but better” style of fragrance often gravitate toward this scent.

On the other hand, if you enjoy bold, complex scents full of florals, spices, or gourmands, you might find Not a Perfume too understated. If that’s what you like, you might be in for disappointment. Yet, it can be a clever layering piece—perfect for adding a musky, warm undertone to your favorite perfume. So try it on your skin first, to see what reaction you get and then try layering it with other perfumes.

Pros and Cons

Pros

• Hypoallergenic: It’s generally well-tolerated even by sensitive individuals.
• Minimalistic & Modern: Great for those who seek a “clean,” stripped-down fragrance.
• Unique Aura: Adapts to your own skin chemistry, creating a unique and personal scent.
• Layering Option: Pairs nicely with other perfumes to add depth without overpowering.

Cons

• Minimal Projection: If you prefer a bold sillage, this might be too subdued.
• Longevity Varies: Some may find they need to reapply throughout the day.
• Single Note: Fragrance enthusiasts who love complexity might find it lacking in nuance. Might be too subtle for some.
• Price Point: Some may see it as pricey for a one-note composition.

Available in 100ml, 50ml and 7.5ml.
105eur for 50ml via Juliette Has a Gun website or 100ml or $115 for 135eur via 50ml.eu.